We didn't get chance to explore the whole park, maybe we should come back in Fall. The park is like a rectangular box divided by Appalachian Trail (west to east), and Newfound Gap Road (connecting Gartlinburg and Cherokee). Gartlinburg is well-developed, tons of shopping store, outlet mall, restaurant, entertainment, cars. We saw 4 helicopters for sightseeing when we approach the town. It's July 4th, and the traffic jam up starting at Pigeon Forge, Gartlingburg is just crowded, and we probably drove about 2 hours for 15 miles.
If we'd go back on July 4th again, we probably will have lunch at Pigeon Forge, head directly to smoky moutain visitor center, hiking, and then back to Gartlingburg for dinner. So take 441 south from Pigeon Forge, and you will find a city visitor center down the road (not national park visitor center) . City built parking lot there, and encourage visitor to park car and take shuttle to Gartlingburg. If you want to go to national park, don't take the shuttle, keep on driving. Once reach the fork where 441/73/321 meet, turn right (west) to Sugarland visitor center, you will literally save 2 hour on the road. If you turn left (east) to Gartlingburg, you better to tune into blue Jazz while you stuck on the road.
Cherokee is at the south entrance of the park. It is small town with Indian reservation, couple of shops, gas station, and one Chinese restaurant. I read some blog online about local are not friendly, and service is not great. But considered what have happened here, it's all understandable.
When we drove downhill on the Newfound Gap road, it just like the airplane ready for landing, you ear will feel a lot of pressure. And we rent a Chevy, the brake is shaking, smoking, and I have to use hand brake all the time, and I pull over couple of times just to let it cool down. We always thought it's car problem until I talked to a friend who has been to Smoky before, and she told me it's really not a car problem. When going downhill, always shift to a lower gear to conserve your brakes, and it will avoid brake failure. If your vehicle has an automatic transmission, use L or 2. A lesson learned.
There is no restaurant or gas station in the park, make sure you fulfil yourself and your car before head for the park.
Day 1
we hike on the trails around Mount Le Counte. The top 3 trails of the parks are around Mount Le Counte:
1) Alum Cave Bluff (5.4 miles).
2) We skip Chimney Top since it's too steep. (4 miles)
3) Appalachian Trail (to Charlies Bunion) which is 8.8 miles round-trip
A typical route is taking the trail to Alum Cave Bluff, then sumitt Mount Le Counte, where you can find the only lodge in the park, you need to make reservation 2-3 years in advance. Then you walk down along Boulevard Trail, which will meet Appalachian Trail. If you trun left, you go to Charlies Bunion, turn right you will get back to Newfound Gap road. From there, you need take a ride to the trail head of Alum Cave Bluff.
The AT trail to Charlies Bunion is voted top 4 in Backpacker magazine (2008 issue). No. 1 is Bright Angel trial in Grand Canyon, No. 2 is Narrow in Zion, No. 3 is Half Dome in Yosemite, and No. 4 is Charles Bunion. In Charles Bunion, I met two full-equipped backpackers who walked on AT. First one is old man , a local guy, he said his daughter used to hike with him when she is young, but not anymore. I asked him why not bring your dog, so you have a partner. Old man said no pet is allowed on the trail, and he get used to.
The other is a young man, probably in his 40s. He asked me what's the time. I don't wear watch, so I try to guesstimate but it's so hard to guess the time when you are in middle of nowhere. I turned myself into a deep thinking mode and try to figure it out. He said "just a rough idea". It take me a while to say "hmmm, probably 6:45". He smiled. I don't know why I said 6:45, why not just say 7. For a backpacker who is walking on the 2000+ mile long Appalachian Trail, his scale of time might be hour or day, maybe week?
After we set up tent in Smokemount campground, we drove to Clingmans Dome to see the sunset. Clingmans Dome is the highest point of national park (6643 feet). The sunset is awesome, that's the best place to see sunset and layers of mountains in distance. I didn't think Smoky Mountain is a beautiful park until I have been to Clingmans Dome.
One thing I notice on the trail: majority of hikers are American. couple of Chinese, 1 Japanese, 1 black man, 2 black women, 3 Amigo, couple of Indian, quite surprised--- many Korean folks. on the trail to Alum Cave Bluff, Xiaoli took a rest and fall behind. I was probably 1 mile ahead of her. a Karean couple came up to me, and said "is that girl behind your wife". I nodded. they said with a smile "you should wait for her, it's dangerous to leave her alone in the park". The couple are in their 60s, age of my Mom and Dad. I surprised they speak frankly, but I really appreciate they speak out frankly, just like Mom and Dad.
Day 2
It's raining hard in the morning, so we decide to have a driving tour. We went to the Oconauluftee visitor center (close to Cherokee), and there is a farm museum nearby -- Park service move some lodge, barn here to preserve them. A grandma-volunteer is very nice and excited to tell the story of the white settler in 1880s. I can tell she is enjoying the work very much.
Around noon, we drove to Roaring Fork Motor Natural Trail, and the driving trail is similar to Sleeping Bear Dune. We hope to see some wild animal, but not a single one. Later afternoon, we drove east to Cades Cove along Little River road. it's around 25 miles driving from Gatlinburg. Cades Cove is famous for the 11-mile-one-lane-loop-road,where you can drive, ride bicycle, or hike. It's the best place to encounter a black bear.
When I hiked on Appalachian Trail, I talked to a guy called Gary, who live in Indianapolis, and he come to Smoky every year. I complained to him that I didn't see a single wild animal, I mean a deer, a moose, a bear ... nothing. Gary said "Have you been to Cades Cove?". "No". "Then you should". He said "you get 50% chance to see a black bear". Guess what, we saw black bear 5 times, that's 500%, bingo.
The best time to see a black bear is early morning and later afternoon. The experience is quite similiar to Yellowstone, when you see a lot of cars stop in front of you, there must be something, and you just pull over, jump off the car and run for it.
Day 3
we need to leave 8am so we can get back to Michigan by 6 and return the car. And I decide to drive along Cades Cove loop one more time. The loop road is close after sunset, and the gate open after sunrise. I got up too early, and arrive at the entrance around 5:45, the gate is not open yet. I park the car, and walked along the road. The fog is rising, it's very quiet, even the bird is not waking up yet. And I can hear the sound when the horses eat the grass.
To my right, I found a trail, and it's too dark to read the notice on the trailhead board. I standed there for couple of minutes. Do I want to see a bear, or I should turn around? I only have 1 hour left. With hesitation, I walked into the woods, what the heck? it's still dark, quiet, maybe too quiet... At that moment, I feel so alone, the thing I cannot predict scare me, to meet a bear face to face alone is not fun. I probably just walked 20 steps before I turned around quickly with no hesitation. About 6:35am, ranger arrive to open the gate. I get back to my car, and drive along the road. Couple of folks are in front of me. I saw them stop at the trailhead I just walked in, I knew they found bear. And it's my 5th bear in Smoky mountain.
If we'd go back on July 4th again, we probably will have lunch at Pigeon Forge, head directly to smoky moutain visitor center, hiking, and then back to Gartlingburg for dinner. So take 441 south from Pigeon Forge, and you will find a city visitor center down the road (not national park visitor center) . City built parking lot there, and encourage visitor to park car and take shuttle to Gartlingburg. If you want to go to national park, don't take the shuttle, keep on driving. Once reach the fork where 441/73/321 meet, turn right (west) to Sugarland visitor center, you will literally save 2 hour on the road. If you turn left (east) to Gartlingburg, you better to tune into blue Jazz while you stuck on the road.
Cherokee is at the south entrance of the park. It is small town with Indian reservation, couple of shops, gas station, and one Chinese restaurant. I read some blog online about local are not friendly, and service is not great. But considered what have happened here, it's all understandable.
When we drove downhill on the Newfound Gap road, it just like the airplane ready for landing, you ear will feel a lot of pressure. And we rent a Chevy, the brake is shaking, smoking, and I have to use hand brake all the time, and I pull over couple of times just to let it cool down. We always thought it's car problem until I talked to a friend who has been to Smoky before, and she told me it's really not a car problem. When going downhill, always shift to a lower gear to conserve your brakes, and it will avoid brake failure. If your vehicle has an automatic transmission, use L or 2. A lesson learned.
There is no restaurant or gas station in the park, make sure you fulfil yourself and your car before head for the park.
Day 1
we hike on the trails around Mount Le Counte. The top 3 trails of the parks are around Mount Le Counte:
1) Alum Cave Bluff (5.4 miles).
2) We skip Chimney Top since it's too steep. (4 miles)
3) Appalachian Trail (to Charlies Bunion) which is 8.8 miles round-trip
A typical route is taking the trail to Alum Cave Bluff, then sumitt Mount Le Counte, where you can find the only lodge in the park, you need to make reservation 2-3 years in advance. Then you walk down along Boulevard Trail, which will meet Appalachian Trail. If you trun left, you go to Charlies Bunion, turn right you will get back to Newfound Gap road. From there, you need take a ride to the trail head of Alum Cave Bluff.
The AT trail to Charlies Bunion is voted top 4 in Backpacker magazine (2008 issue). No. 1 is Bright Angel trial in Grand Canyon, No. 2 is Narrow in Zion, No. 3 is Half Dome in Yosemite, and No. 4 is Charles Bunion. In Charles Bunion, I met two full-equipped backpackers who walked on AT. First one is old man , a local guy, he said his daughter used to hike with him when she is young, but not anymore. I asked him why not bring your dog, so you have a partner. Old man said no pet is allowed on the trail, and he get used to.
The other is a young man, probably in his 40s. He asked me what's the time. I don't wear watch, so I try to guesstimate but it's so hard to guess the time when you are in middle of nowhere. I turned myself into a deep thinking mode and try to figure it out. He said "just a rough idea". It take me a while to say "hmmm, probably 6:45". He smiled. I don't know why I said 6:45, why not just say 7. For a backpacker who is walking on the 2000+ mile long Appalachian Trail, his scale of time might be hour or day, maybe week?
After we set up tent in Smokemount campground, we drove to Clingmans Dome to see the sunset. Clingmans Dome is the highest point of national park (6643 feet). The sunset is awesome, that's the best place to see sunset and layers of mountains in distance. I didn't think Smoky Mountain is a beautiful park until I have been to Clingmans Dome.
One thing I notice on the trail: majority of hikers are American. couple of Chinese, 1 Japanese, 1 black man, 2 black women, 3 Amigo, couple of Indian, quite surprised--- many Korean folks. on the trail to Alum Cave Bluff, Xiaoli took a rest and fall behind. I was probably 1 mile ahead of her. a Karean couple came up to me, and said "is that girl behind your wife". I nodded. they said with a smile "you should wait for her, it's dangerous to leave her alone in the park". The couple are in their 60s, age of my Mom and Dad. I surprised they speak frankly, but I really appreciate they speak out frankly, just like Mom and Dad.
Day 2
It's raining hard in the morning, so we decide to have a driving tour. We went to the Oconauluftee visitor center (close to Cherokee), and there is a farm museum nearby -- Park service move some lodge, barn here to preserve them. A grandma-volunteer is very nice and excited to tell the story of the white settler in 1880s. I can tell she is enjoying the work very much.
Around noon, we drove to Roaring Fork Motor Natural Trail, and the driving trail is similar to Sleeping Bear Dune. We hope to see some wild animal, but not a single one. Later afternoon, we drove east to Cades Cove along Little River road. it's around 25 miles driving from Gatlinburg. Cades Cove is famous for the 11-mile-one-lane-loop-road,where you can drive, ride bicycle, or hike. It's the best place to encounter a black bear.
When I hiked on Appalachian Trail, I talked to a guy called Gary, who live in Indianapolis, and he come to Smoky every year. I complained to him that I didn't see a single wild animal, I mean a deer, a moose, a bear ... nothing. Gary said "Have you been to Cades Cove?". "No". "Then you should". He said "you get 50% chance to see a black bear". Guess what, we saw black bear 5 times, that's 500%, bingo.
The best time to see a black bear is early morning and later afternoon. The experience is quite similiar to Yellowstone, when you see a lot of cars stop in front of you, there must be something, and you just pull over, jump off the car and run for it.
Day 3
we need to leave 8am so we can get back to Michigan by 6 and return the car. And I decide to drive along Cades Cove loop one more time. The loop road is close after sunset, and the gate open after sunrise. I got up too early, and arrive at the entrance around 5:45, the gate is not open yet. I park the car, and walked along the road. The fog is rising, it's very quiet, even the bird is not waking up yet. And I can hear the sound when the horses eat the grass.
To my right, I found a trail, and it's too dark to read the notice on the trailhead board. I standed there for couple of minutes. Do I want to see a bear, or I should turn around? I only have 1 hour left. With hesitation, I walked into the woods, what the heck? it's still dark, quiet, maybe too quiet... At that moment, I feel so alone, the thing I cannot predict scare me, to meet a bear face to face alone is not fun. I probably just walked 20 steps before I turned around quickly with no hesitation. About 6:35am, ranger arrive to open the gate. I get back to my car, and drive along the road. Couple of folks are in front of me. I saw them stop at the trailhead I just walked in, I knew they found bear. And it's my 5th bear in Smoky mountain.
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