Saturday, November 20, 2010

My trip to National Park

我从小在山沟里长大, 直到我16岁离开, 我的性格脾气除了父母的影响,很大一部分和这一段经历有关。和很多三线厂一样, 离城市都有一段距离,但又不算是乡下. 我一直弄不清楚我是城市人还是乡下人. 这里有从外省调过来的人, 我从小就讲普通话,周围的人很多讲方言. 有时我也说,或交替着说。 总之我不知道站在那边。
建厂的时候从当地农民买的土地,分厂区和居民区。一条马路,一条废弃的铁轨,一条小溪, 三面环山,一面靠河。居民区分成六块,我住的地方在四区. 每一栋房子都是标准的筒子楼,12户 人家, 两层,一个门洞,门前一条马路,再过去就是水龙头和夏天冲凉的地方。在我的记忆中,在一块玩的小孩几乎都来自同一个区,就像是帮派划分了势力范围,很少会越了界限。
窗户几米远开外是我们的棚子,放了各式各样的工具,很多家里放不下又舍不得扔的东西,比如切好的木板就是留给我们3个小孩结婚做家具用。 另外还养了好些鸡,鸭,狗。有 段时间家里的十来头羊也圈养在此。 小时候脱牙的时候,如果是下牙就要把它扔到高处,反之就仍到沟里, 不这样做,要么牙齿长不齐或是索性就不长了。我所有的下牙全都扔到棚子顶上. 棚子外面的小园子里长着一棵苦莲子树, 树冠很大,比两层楼还高。 树上长了很多苦莲子,小孩子都把它用做弹弓的子弹,杀伤力惊人, 打在头上起个包, 不记得试着吃过。夏天的时候树上藏了无数的叫个不停的知了和麻雀.
树后边不远的地方有两座山,左边的是牛头山,右边的是马头山. 我从没有去过马头山,因为要坐船过河,或游过去。我哥哥说他曾经坐船过去放羊,到过对岸的山脚。 正因为自己没去过, 周围的小朋友也都没去过,所以有很多传奇故事:各种动物暂且不说,最神秘的末过于山尖上的大石头,说是当中有个洞,某某某的哥哥在里面发现一把日本人的军刀, 锋利得可以砍柴。从来没见过那把刀,也不知道日本人什么时候到过此处。但一直相信这里面应该有其它宝贝。
牛头山我倒是常常去,知道无数种上山登顶路径,从羊肠小道依路而上,或者沿着怪石攀沿直上,有时索性从灌木丛中开辟条小路. 小的时候我们从外婆家圈了几头羊来养,白天放养到山上,晚上再赶回到棚子里。最多的时候发展到十几头。每次下午去赶羊回家,我都带上我家的狗狗,从岩石上爬过去,爬到能看的羊的地方,我就放狗上去,天生的牧羊犬,没一伙就全下来了。
春天的时候,到处是野果子,黑栗栗, 鸡屁股,拉包,杨梅,三艳泡,草根, 茶花蜜... 黑栗栗类似这里的blackberry,长在小路边的灌木丛中, 吃完以后整个嘴唇舌头都是黑色, 几天也褪不了色。 大人白天上班,晚上回家都要检查舌头,看是不是又上山玩去了。所以大家都不敢多吃,或改吃其它,比如鸡屁股。 鸡屁股吃多了就会全身发痒,发作起来比挨打还难受。 但没有什么比偷偷溜上山摘野果子更具吸引我的.
山沟里天气变化很快, 刚出门还是大晴天,转眼天就暗下来,大家都急急地往家里跑, 边跑边喊 "下雨了",大人都冲出来,收衣服,把煤球转移到棚子里, 把香肠腊肉都抬进屋。跑回家我就坐在窗前,看乌云压得很低, 不能再低, 看不见牛头山, 马头山,苦莲子树 摇晃得厉害, 屋子里一下就暗下来,紧接着雨水猝然砸下,一滴滴打在屋檐窗户上 , 再溅起来, 遍地开花. 偶尔几个行人在雨中飞奔,我总是很开心地笑, 庆幸自己跑得很快. 有好几次我也被大雨困在山上,躲在茶树下面,不想被人笑话. 大雨过后常常见彩虹,从牛头山一直跨过马头山, 很远的地方就能看见.
在我记忆中,我小时候唯一的玩具是一个小小的钢琴, 7个按键,我很喜欢,后来搬家的时候再也找不到了. 但我的童年是我最美好的时光.
在国内没怎么旅游,很小的时候去过井冈山,大学实习的时候去过湖南衡山, 除此就再也没有去过什么山。但整个童年我都在山沟里呆着, 白天在山上捉迷藏, 晚上在操场上疯跑. 所以第一次去大峡谷, 整个心又重新回来, 从此一发不可收拾...
12/2004 大峡谷国家公园

















07/2005 大蹄顿国家公园 Grand Teton National Park


07/2005 黄石国家公园


07/2005 冰川国家公园


07/2006 奥林匹克国家公园







07/2006 Mountain Rainier国家公园








12/2006 Everglades National Park









12/2006 Biscayne National Park









9/2007 Acadia National Park













07/2008 Great Smoky National Park


















09/2008 Bryce National Park



09/2008 Zion National Park



Zion and Bryce

It's Labor day weekend. We figured the summer is almost gone and we should go somewhere. I have heard Zion quite often recently, and the story of Angle's Landings and Zion Narrows is so unique that I have to try it myself.

We stop at west entrance (Kolob Canyons Visitor Center) when we drove from Vegas to Bryce, it's by highway 15. Kolob Arch is known to have the longest span of all the freestanding arches in the world and is often referenced as the world’s largest arch. But it's 13 miles round trip to get there, so we took a short 2 mile trails before we head for Bryce.



We got t-storm in Bryce, and it's not typical hot weather as usual. The descend on Navajo Loop is great, Hoodoo stands alone, like phantom, in different shape. A Paiute Indian myth says "the animal legend people who lived in Bryce Canyon long ago, displeased the coyote. Angered, he turned all the people to rock." The overlook from Bryce Amphitheater is awesome. We walked around the rim of Sunrise, sunset, inspiration and Bryce point. At Bryce Point, we can see the horseback riders descend the trail far away.





Then we took route 89 and 9 to Zion from East entrance. Even though it's not as popular as South (main) entrance, we WOW when we approach Zion Mt. Carmel Hwy tunnel. It's not hoodoo any more. If coyote turn people into hoodoo, what has been done to make these magnificent rock mountain? I am not sure if you heard Petroglyphs Canyon in Zion? Anasazi Indians has lived in Zion for about 2 thousand years, and then Paiutes have been in the area for about 800 years. They have left behind petroglyphs (carve into rock, mostly soft sandstone) and pictographs (paint in natural pigment). I am so looking forward to discover some of these rock arts, if it's not damaged by nature power or vandalism, but it's just so hard to locate it. No information has ever been published online, people always recommend to talk to ranger, but ranger won't tell either. To keep it secret might be the best way to protect it. Finally I talked to a veteran hiker on a trail, and he gave me some hint. It's right on Carmel highway between two tunnels. We stop at some gravel pullout near Clear Creek, head down the trail and search for it. It's not an easy job, can you imagine how many rocks you would face? We search for hours, can't find it, but the treasure hunting experience is one of the best in Zion.




It's 4 pm when we are ready to ascent Angel's Landings. it usually take 4-6 hours for the round trip, a little bit risk but we can manage it. I heard quite a story about Angel's Landings, and when I finally face it, it's not as scary as I imagine. It's quite similar to Acadia's Precipice Trail with much larger scale.







Later Scott asked me if I see skull around the rim, like Indian Jones. Luckily, I didn't see skull of any kind, I just saw ambitious tree growing in cracks high on the sheer cliff, an eagle soared up high and flew over the valley, a slide-away rattlesnake I almost stepped on …



What make Zion different from Bryce is Virgin River. In Bryce, there is creek when it rains, otherwise it's quite dry. In Zion, Virgin River run through the park, and the water bring life to the area. Hiking the Zion Narrows is actually hiking or wading ( if not swimming) in Virgin River. The current is swift, the water is cold, and the rock underneath is slippery. We got off the shuttle at Temple of Sinawava, hike up the Riverside Walk trail before get into water. In the first 2.5 miles, it's quite wide, probably equivalent to 4 lanes in highway, the canyon get narrow graduately. We approached mouth of Orderville Canyon which is at the right side of the river. Orderville is much narrow and darker.



We encountered a deep pool, and the only way to pass it is to swim through it. So we turned around and return back to Temple of Sinawava. When we get back to trailhead, it's almost 7 hours' hiking in Narrows. We are cold, hungry, miserable and we cancel the ride with ranger shuttle. We were too excited while hiking and went beyond a little bit out of our physical limitation.


In Zion I notice the tourist base is quite international. Our travel partner have stayed in Germany for 2 years, and they recognize many tourist are from German, Netherlands... and our waiter in Zion Lodge is from Warsaw, Poland, our neighbor and her 70+ year old Mom in Zion Park Motel is from Switzerland for 2-week vacation; when we left the park, we met a group of Japanese just starting their 7-day adventure.


We didn't see many wildlife as other national parks. Around Zion Lodge, some deers wander around, and we also saw a group of wild turkeys; I saw a rattlesnake in west rim trail and an eagle in Angel's Landings. I was told if you are lucky you might see fox, mountain lion, desert bighorn sheep or bear, but we are not that lucky.

we had dinner at Zion Lodge. It's around 10pm when we get out of the restaurant, one shuttle just left and we are worried if we missed the last one. We looked up, the stars is fantastic. I used to tell my wife the most beautiful stars I have ever seen 10 years ago in China --- I said it's just like firework. I know it's hard to get the picture how star would like firework. But tonight she got it. If we catched the shuttle, we would miss the beautiful sky. We laid down on the stone bench, looking into the Galaxy... Nature is brilliant.

Going to the mountains is going home

I walked over a passage formed by a huge fallen rock on the trail. By instinct, I turned around just to cover my back. I saw that thing, twice size of cat, standing on top of the rock, whose eyes glow a deep yellow staring at me. It's still dark, no moon, the stars are just beautiful. But its eyes are much bright than the star, and closer, no more than 10 feet. Along the trail, I noticed the sign that Mountain lion is around, which is no fun to meet one in the wild. Luckly it's afraid of me more than I afraid of it. It climb up and down the rock, looking back couple of time before disappearing into the dark.

That's the closest encounter I had with a stranger on the trail in Yosemite National Park. On summer 2001 my friend wrote me a letter after she went to Yosemite. "We are told there are bears. During evening, we are a little worry that the bear will enter our room which has no doors, but it didn't". The room without door is where I stayed, called Curry village, right below the towering majesty of Half Dome and Glacier Point. I found out actually there is a door, with a latch from inside to lock it. A bear can easily break in if it smells a slight of peanut butter on your lips. But the door defines a boundary where bear should not across, at least you would hope so. Walking into the dark, into wildness didn't give you the feeling of security a thin layer of door could provide, and I am walking into their territory.

During the week of 9/18/09, it's hot in the Yosemite Valley , 94 degree, not what I'd expect. The record high in the past is 87. I asked the ranger what's the best time to hike the half dome. Her response was "one time, I started at 11:30 at night". If she can do so, I sure can. But instead, I woke up at 2am, got dressed, packed enough water, an apple, two cucumbers, three enegy bars, and walked toward Happy Isles, the trail head. It's about 1 mile from tent. I walked across the tents, there are 300+ of them, all looks same. I lost at one time, but vaguely heard the Meceded river in distance, and just follow it. Along the 17 miles, 14 hours round trip, this 1 mile flat paved road is the most tough one: I kept on asking myself, why am I doing this? anyone I can join on the trail? any bear wonder along the trail, or a lynx might jump from behind biting right on my neck? what happen if I miss a step and fall into the creek?

Too much went through my mind in the first 20 minutes that I almost want to turn around. But I have prepared for the hike to Half Dome for almost the whole summer: running with Ashish Saturday morning for 10 miles, bicycling for 40 mile on Sunday, every day 20 pushup, 60 crunch up, countless weight lifting... More importantly, it's my test hiking before I go to Grand Canyon for the Rim to Rim hike, which will be 21 miles, 5000 feet loss/gain, and I plan to finish within 18 hours if not 16. I can't afford not going forward. Turning back is not my character, Sam will laugh at me.

3:03am, I reached trailhead. still no one. But I determined to climb it. The darkness impose a big challenge, The visual possibilities are greatly impaired to a minimum of using the headlight now and then. But I can feel the surrounding much more clear. I can feel the direction of the wind, the softness of the soil, the toughness of the rock; I can smell everything much better; I listen to the sound around me, the waterfall, the creek, the leaves whispering, occasionally night animal shuffling through the bush, the heavy breathe, the step on the zigzag, and most of the time, the vast silence. I am so alone on the trail, all the park belongs to me, I'm only hopeful to see someone, or something on the trail. While I stop at John Muir trail, I saw one flash light far below me, maybe two. Can't really tell if it's moving or it's a lamppost. But it gave me hope someone might soon join me if I slow down a little bit. That's really the turning point, I was overwhelmly dominated by the fear in the first half, and then the hope start to emerge.

The follower never show up, maybe I never slow down, but it delights the rest of my climbing. I reached the top of Half Dome at 8:06am. The sun illuminated Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, and cast a shadow of Half Dome along the Tanaye valley and North Dome.


Two days after I came back home, PBS broadcasted The National Parks: America's Best Idea directed by Ken Burns. I enjoyed every seconds of these 6 episodes. The iconic Yosemite constantly pop up, and I always point at the screen and yell to Sherrie, "we have been there". Yosemite is our 14th National parks.

John Muir said "... people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity..."

For me, going to the mountains is going home.

My 2nd trip to Acadia National Park

The first time I heard Acadia is from Jeff Brodsky when we had lunch at Hewitt. His grandfather's buddy have a cottage next to Acadia, and it's his family tradition to visit the park almost every year in the summer. He told me all the wonderful stuff about the Acadia, the sunset, fall color, carriage road, lobster ... and I know I must visit it one day myself.

I went to Acadia with Sherrie and my friends first time on 2007. We had wonderful time. The weather is great, food is great, the pictures turn out to be great and we simply can't believe we didn't come here early. And I know I will come back.

When I get chance to go to Boston for a one-week training on Oct 09, I plan my 2nd trip to Acadia for the weekend.

I drove to Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound after watching sunset at Bass Harbor head lighthouse. I heard a lot of good things about this restaurant but never got chance to visit it last time.

Trenton Bridge, Acadia National Park, 2009

It's very unique setup, no waitress, no alcohol, you pick the lobster, they weight it, label it, and boil it outside. The room is small, and only 7 tables inside. I can imagine it will be a long wait during peak season. Late I found out that day is the last day of the season the restaurant will open. They told me in their 40 years of business, they always close the door on Columbus day, which is Oct 12, 09. But for this year, they extend to Oct 18. I felt so lucky since I walked in around 7pm. if I'm 30-minute late, I have to wait all the way until Memorial day to taste their freshed lobster boiled using sea water.

Even though it's last day, and almost last minute, the room is still crowd. I shared a table with a family from Maryland. A lovely family with two kids. The boy and girl are not shy at all. They told me what kind of seafood they like, where they come from, their name, and they also discover what I like, where I came from and my name, and don't hesistate to share the secret to their parents. The couple met in Spain, and travel a lot oversea. I guess they work for goverment or serve in the army. They do a lot of camping, backpacking. Surprisingly, they visit many National Forest, but not many National park. I asked what bring them to Acadia. I turned out the wife read the October 2009 issue of Runner's World, and the cover of the magazine is a runner running on the carriage road in Acadia National Park. She simply get hooked, checked the calendar, and found there is a Marathon on 10/18. So she booked four tickets to Bangor ME, abour 1 hour driving from Acadia. We share a lot of common interest, outdoor, hiking, backpacking, running, bicycling, travling. I told my story to National Parks, and they share their trips to National Forests. You'd think sitting in the same table with stranger would put you and them in awkward situation. But it's really not. We have a lot of fun. I wished we could meet again somewhere.

Acadia National Park, 2009

The next day, I got up early, watched the sunrise in Cadillac Mountain, then drove to Jordan's restaurant for breakfast. it's famous for it's breakfast and schedule. it open at 5am, not many restaurant open so early. I sat by the bar. It's nice place to sit when you travel alone. You have nobody to talk to, but it's fascinated to see how busy the kitchen is. I ordered a combo with plenty of patato, sausage, two eggs, coffee, two wild Maine blueberry pancakes. I am full.

In the next 2 hours, I was wondering around the downtown Bar Harbor. it's almost at the end of season. The last cruise Queen Mary will arrive on 11/1. After that most of the shop, restaurant, hotel will be closed. The good thing is many shops offer 30-50% discount.

To Sargent Mountain, Acadia National Park, 2009

Acadia National Park, 2009

The Way Life Should Be

9/30/2007

美国国家公园绝大多数集中在落基山以西,缅因州的Acadia National Park 是新英格兰地区唯一的国家公园. 名气虽比不上黄石或大峡谷, 也有其独特的地方. 当年拓荒者漂流到缅因沙漠山島 (Mt. Desert Island),仿佛来到仙岛,由此得名.

美国新英格兰地区有6个州: 康涅狄格(Connecticut),马塞诸塞(Massachusetts),新罕布什尔(New Hampshise),罗德岛州, 佛蒙特, 和缅因(Maine) . 缅因州森林覆盖率为全美之首, 林地面积占该州总面积的89%. 龙虾也是名闻遐迩. 当我们进入缅因边界, 高速边立的路牌写着"The Way Life Should Be". 想起以前看过一篇游记,说缅因有两类人,缅因人和外来人 (You know there are two types of Mainers? There are Mainers and there are From Aways). 由于地理位置非常偏僻, 即使在美国人的故事中,缅因也往往代表了一个非常遥远而古老的地方. 电影Shawshank Redemption (肖申克的救赎) 的故事就发生在缅因一个虚构的监狱Shawshank State Prison.



我们离开波士顿 ,沿着95号高速向北开, 中午到达波特兰 (Portland). 波特兰是缅因州最大的城市, 最大的海港和渔港. 美国西海岸也有一个城市叫波特兰 (in Oregan), 两地相距5000公里. 有一次我去西雅图,同飞机上一乘客坐错了航班, 去了相反的方向, 给我非常深的印象, 所以中途下来看看. 开着车在城市里兜了一圈, 车不多,寥寥几个行人,不打算逗留,径直开到Fort Williams State Park (Cape Elizabeth) 去看灯塔.












Portland Head Light 修建在海边的悬崖之上, 四周长了许多Poison Ivy, 缅因最老的灯塔, 看网上不少人说它是北美上镜率最高的灯塔. 其实Acadia 的Bass harbor head lighthouse也是很有名的, 只是我们这次没去成.



离开波特兰继续北上, 一路上听了不少歌曲,麦当娜的Aerican Pie, 阿杜刀郎, 秘鲁的生萧... 讲了好些他们不笑我笑个不停的笑话...超了无数的车... 太阳一点点下去,开始担心日落之前赶不到卡迪拉克顶峰(Cadillac Mountain), 不停得看表. 终于看到公园的路口, 一路盘山而上,停车, 下车, 屁颠屁颠地去追赶西逝的太阳














下得山来天色已黑, 大伙商量着去哪吃龙虾. 来之前就听人说,吃龙虾找烟囱, 客人自己挑,把新鲜的龙虾投入锅中, 不用任何佐料, 烹熟之后,鲜嫩可口. 一路上也看到不少小店门前立着几根烟囱, 下面是热气腾腾的几口大锅, 只是没停,一路开到海边,去了Bar Harbor 的 QuarterDeck餐馆.













问伙计能不能把活龙虾拿上来耍耍,说是可以, 半小时以后居然端上来已是红红的龙虾














10/1/2007
第二天5:30起床看日出, 再上卡迪拉克山. 缅因州地处美国大陆的东北角, 南临浩瀚的大西洋, 北靠加拿大魁北克, 卡迪拉克山又是美国东海岸最高的山, 这里可算是美国第一道曙光升起的地方.

















停泊在群岛之中的邮轮是Queen Mary 2, 世界第二大的豪华邮轮.















山上风很大,气温不到10度, 只恨衣服穿得不够多. 下山杀回Bar Harbor吃早饭.

Gorham Mountain Trail





























Beehive Trail
















































下山的时候我们可以原路还回,只是比往上爬更难, 于是选择另一条路下山, 然后沿着公路走回停车场. 公园里有免费的观光旅游车,但我们革命小将­坚决要把剩下的路走完.

















回到停车场已是4点左右,天还尚早, 只是大伙饿得不行,于是直奔Bar Harbor去吃龙虾. 找了家店坐下, 问伙计能不能把活龙虾拿上来耍耍,爽快答应.



















这哥们抓了只一磅的龙虾, 向我们展示一个小技巧,他把龙虾往桌上一放,龙虾就往前爬。 然后他把龙虾抓起来,倒立在桌上, 用手去搓龙虾背, 说这样可以使龙虾安静下来. 把手放开,龙虾果真一动不动.











































10/2/2007

















Dorr Mountain Trail


















爬Dorr Mountain山的人不多,快到上顶,后面跟上来一个老头,全副武装, 一看就是户外活动的好手。我问他这里的小路走了几个,他说每一条都走过, 他住在这。 他听说我们爬过Beehive Trail 建议我们去爬Precipice Trail, 说景色有两倍这么好。

Precipice Trail

刚把车停在Precipice Trail 山脚, 就看见一帮人抬头望山上看, 还没爬就挺有成就感. 入口的告示说上去下来一般要2-3小时, 但我们只有2个半小时就天黑。知道是块硬骨头, 也有思想准备,可是一转弯看到上山的路还是出乎意料, 就没有路,大大小小的岩石叠在一块, 就顺着兰色的箭头往上爬.